Please note : PT=Phuong Trang, GBL=Green Bamboo Lodge,
BX=Bus Station, QL=Highway, VN=Vietnamese/Vietnam
GETTING THERE FROM HCMC
Note : You will travel from HCMC along QL1A and then turn
off to QL20 – that’s the way to Dalat. You’ll have to alight somewhere along
QL20 to take a xe-om (motorbike taxi). If I’m not wrong, those with no prior
arrangements will usually drop at 125km mark. Those who made arrangements with
their accom can be picked up at the 142km mark.
PT Booking Office. Having read TripAdvisor and other sites, I decided to take the
Phuong Trang bus (PT; English name FUTA Bus). Buy your bus tickets at 202, Le
Hong Phong Street, Dist 5 – that’s what I was told when I called the hotline. I
wanted to leave at 7am and so went to book my ticket the night before.
Unfortunately, only the 8.30am bus was available. The rest were sold out, I
think. So you might want to book a day or two earlier, or do an online booking.
I made the trip out there to make sure I know where it is the next day – don’t
want to be late. Mind you, there are several prominent orange Phuong Trang
offices along Le Hong Phong Street and they all look alike. 202 is the one
along Le Hong Phong that is between Tran Phu and An Duong Vuong.
I was fortunate that the reception girl spoke a little
English. It’s best to get a Vietnamese to write down what you want to say in
Vietnamese, or at least the destination. My poor VN pronunciation almost landed
me at the wrong place. Fortunately, I had my VN friend write it down for me as
back-up. You would have read that you have to stop somewhere along the way to
Dalat. I booked the ticket to Dalat which usually cost 210,000vnd one way. But
because I told her I was going to Nam Cat Tien, she charged me only 190,000vnd
– so tell her where you’re going. If you book online, I think you’ll pay the
full price – not that it’s a big difference. I realized that most Vietnamese
will understand “Nam Cat Tien” and not “Cat Tien”. For foreigners, it’s known
as “Cat Tien” to us. Told me to come one hour early. Why, I wonder, as most
tours in Pham Ngu Lau only ask for us to go 30 minutes early. By the way, it
would be good to put all those things you need on the bus in a bag (water,
snacks, jacket, travel pillow, travel sickness med, book, phone … whatever you
think you need) as your back-pack will be kept in the luggage hold.
The next day. I was lucky that I was obedient. Went there an
hour early and sat to wait for the bus. Something made me asked the counter
staff about the time of the bus. Thank God I did because I had to take their
shuttle bus to BX Mien Tay (Bus Station Mien Tay) in Dist 6. That’s a good 20
minutes away. By then, I had missed one shuttle bus. It was already 8am when my
shuttle bus left and I was wondering if I could make it on time. I did,
fortunately. When you reach BX Mien Tay, look for a PT Room with the sign
Dalat. Wait inside. An announcement will be made when it’s time to board. The
people there are mostly taking the same bus as you, so you just follow them.
Anyway, the PT staff will check your ticket first. Then he will lead everyone
to the designated bus. More of the FUTA bus later.
I booked my accom with Green Bamboo Lodge (GBL – separate
review). Upon my query in their facebook (which they were very prompt in
replying), they asked me to get in touch with Mr Vung, their manager who will
help me with the transport to GBL. He helped me to arrange a xe-om (motor bike
taxi).
125km and 142km mark. You’ll find this all round the internet
– some stopping at 125km, others at 142km. Mr Vung said I should tell the PT
bus driver to stop at the 142km mark (important - write this down in VN and
show to bus driver/asst). This is a petrol kiosk just before the Tan Phu Toll
Station. 142km is nearer to Cat Tien and takes about 30 min by xe-om. 125km is
at the small town Tan Phu and will take a longer distance/time to reach Cat
Tien (and so you pay more for the xe-om). There was only my xe-om waiting for
me at 142km so I guess that isn’t the place to stop unless you have arranged
transport.
Stone Markers along QL20. There are stone markers along QL20 (Highway
20). These stone markers mark the
distance along QL20 from the turnoff at QL1A (Highway 1A – the main highway you
will take from HCMC – it actually goes all the way to Hanoi). 142km refers to
the distance from HCMC. Do not be deceived like me. I was waiting for the 142km
marker. Actually I should be looking at about the 50km mark – I didn’t note
down the exact km mark because I was stunned when the asst to the driver said
we had reached 142km mark. I guess it was the right place to drop as the toll
station (main point of reference) was just in front. Anyway, my xe-om driver
was already waiting there and flagged down the bus. Do remember to bring your
glasses/sun-glasses when you ride the xe-om. Otherwise your eyes might get teary,
also protection from small stones and dust. I brought my mask but didn’t use it
as the air was fresh. And if you’re particular, then a cap too. Wear the helmet
(comes with the xe-om) on your cap as you don’t know how many hundreds have
worn that helmet!
Xe-om Price. My mistake was not asking Mr Vung to tell the xe-om driver
the price. I ended up paying 200,000vnd (instead of 130,000vnd which I saw
later on the GBL namecard). But seriously, I didn’t really mind. He has to make
the trip out and wait for me. And then drive me all the way in. In HCMC, you’ll
pay 50,000vnd just for a short distance. At times, I think we should not be too
calculative where the livelihood of the locals is concerned.
Schedule :
0730 : Reach
202 LHP
0800 : Shuttle bus left for BX Mien Tay
0820 : Reach BX Mien Tay
0845 : Depart BX Mien Tay
1030 : Stop at PT Office in Bien Hoa to pick up passengers. Toilet
break too.
1130 : Stop near turnoff to QL20 for lunch.
1205 : Depart
1330 : Reach 142km mark
1335 : Depart 142km mark on xe-om
1405 : Reach GBL
GOING BACK TO HCMC
Local or PT Bus? GBL Ms Men said that I could either take the local bus, or she could
get a xe-om to drive me out to QL20 and help me hail the PT bus. When I asked,
she said the local bus was quite alright. So I took her advice. If you think
about it, you need to get someone to arrange with PT about the bus, ride the
xe-om out 20+ km, and then wait for the PT bus to come. You don’t even know
whether the xe om driver will wait with you. And you pay a lot more
comparatively. But the local bus will pick you at the doorstep and send you all
the way right into HCMC. Which will you choose? You, the reader, can decide
after reading my adventure in the local bus.
Local Bus. The local bus comes to the Cat Tien entrance on the hour every hour, so
I was told. It was quite on time – 8am. Just wait at Ms Le's stall or the Ticketing Booth. It costs 80,000vnd – you get what you
pay for as you will see. I thought it was a big tour bus. Wrong, it’s a
mini-bus. It announced its arrival in style - with horns blaring. Little did I
realize that was an indication of what’s to come. Up the bus I went up with my
pack and off the young driver went. Just waved at me to sit down, pack and all.
The seats were small with little leg space. I’m 1.78m tall and thin and already
found it tight. And there were more mosquitoes in the bus than in the Cat Tien
jungle! I had to dig deep into my pack to retrieve my repellent. As written in
the internet, the bus will go around the place to pick up more passengers. The
way he drove, I think the driver was high. We had a jolly time speeding, twisting
and turning all along the small country roads. Add the blaring VN music
accompanied by the blasting horn and we’re all in for a hell of a ride …
literally! At one stop, his assistant went over to the back to load some
luggage bags. I took the opportunity to throw my backpack there. No, the boy
said … and there were even chickens clucking their lives away in the “boot”. No
choice so I went back. Driver signaled to put my pack under one of the front
seats – thank goodness.
The bus zoomed around picking up more and more pax, even when all the
seats were taken. The next few passengers were really taken for a ride. It goes
like this. The asst will wave for an unsuspecting passenger to come on board.
He steps up and the bus zooms off before he can change his mind. He looks round
and finds no seat. The asst happily gives him a plastic chair to sit along the
aisle. Now for the next victim. We were packed like sardines. In my row alone,
we have 5 adults and 1 baby. It’s already cramped with 4 pax, let alone 5+1! I
can’t even move my shoulders – we were all seated shoulder to shoulder, a royal
feast for the mosquitoes. It’s going to be like that all the merry way to HCMC.
What could be worse? Ah yes, there’s now this kid in front throwing up!
After an hour of looking for more victims, the mini bus finally makes
it way out to QL20. We started at 8am, travelled along Ta Lai road and reach
the turnoff to QL20 after an hour. (I think that’s the 125km mark but I’m not
sure). After another hour, we reach the turnoff at QL1A and took a break at a
local place. I climbed over an obstacle course of people and things just to get
off the bus. Followed the toilet sign and almost ended up at the ladies toilet
when I saw this VN guy at the “Gents”. Ladies have toilets with zinc doors.
Gents … that wide open space with trees, it’s all yours … just pick your fav
spot. I chose mine by the papaya tree!! Closer to HCMC, some pax got off and
others got on. We finally reached the BX Mien Dong at 11.55am ... almost 4 hrs
Schedule :
0800 : Boarded the local mini-bus to HCMC
0900 : Reached Ta Lai/QL20 intersection
1005 : Reached QL20/QL1A intersection
1010 : Toilet break
1023 : Depart for HCMC
1155 : Reach Mien Dong Bus Station
GBL Ms Men said that if I should think of visiting again, I could buy
the local bus ticket at Counter No 5 at BX Mien Dong. I went to check
it out and true enough, Counter 5 sells bus tickets all the way to Cat Tien
doorstep. So if anyone wants to travel VN-style and experience what it’s like
to travel long-distance the VN way, just book a ticket from here.
ABOUT PHUONG TRANG BUS
The PT bus I took was a sleeper bus. Never took one before. I was
concerned about “legs and feet” as Vietnamese have a habit of putting their
feet everywhere. My fears were unfounded as our legs are tucked inside a
plastic enclosure. The space was just a little too short for me after some
time, but it didn’t really bother me (I’m 1.78m). I was asked to choose my seat
when I booked my ticket at their office. Choose those window seats on the
opposite side of the driver – so that you can look out at the streets. You’ll
find cars zipping in the opposite direction if you sit at the window seats on
the driver’s side, thus blocking your view at times. As for the middle row,
need I say anything? It’s a no-no for me. Next question, up or down. I prefer
the lower deck. There’s a blanket with every seat if you dare to use. Everyone
is given a free bottle of water. The seats can be reclined so you can choose to
lie down or half-sit. It’s best to bring a travel pillow with you – you won’t
regret. The air-con wasn’t too good in this particular bus, so it gets a bit
warm at times – all depends on your bus. You are given a plastic bag to put
your shoes – no shoes/slippers in the bus. At the lunch stop, everyone just
walked from their seats except silly me who brought my shoes. Guess what … the
asst brought out a box of slippers for everyone!! How interesting! Oh yes, I
forgot to mention the additional passengers in the form of some cockroaches
hitch-hiking under the sleeper beds. The stops that the PT bus stop at have
proper toilet facilities, unlike the local bus. And at the lunch point, you can
buy a lunch set at 35,000vnd. Quite decent as you get rice, vegetable and a
meat/fish/egg helping of your choice plus soup.
