Friday, 3 June 2016

All about getting to and from Cat Tien National Park

Made a solo visit to Cat Tien National Park from 1 to 3 June 2016. Read that it has many birds so thought I'd make a trip and see if I can catch myself some birds on digital film. I love to "shoot" birds on my cheap Nikon DSLR-wannabe camera. Spent quite some time trying to dig out info on getting there from HCMC and more importantly, getting back. Nothing much could be found, esp on getting back. So the details are here for anyone who wants to make a trip there.

Please note : PT=Phuong Trang, GBL=Green Bamboo Lodge, BX=Bus Station, QL=Highway, VN=Vietnamese/Vietnam

GETTING THERE FROM HCMC

Note : You will travel from HCMC along QL1A and then turn off to QL20 – that’s the way to Dalat. You’ll have to alight somewhere along QL20 to take a xe-om (motorbike taxi). If I’m not wrong, those with no prior arrangements will usually drop at 125km mark. Those who made arrangements with their accom can be picked up at the 142km mark.

PT Booking Office. Having read TripAdvisor and other sites, I decided to take the Phuong Trang bus (PT; English name FUTA Bus). Buy your bus tickets at 202, Le Hong Phong Street, Dist 5 – that’s what I was told when I called the hotline. I wanted to leave at 7am and so went to book my ticket the night before. Unfortunately, only the 8.30am bus was available. The rest were sold out, I think. So you might want to book a day or two earlier, or do an online booking. I made the trip out there to make sure I know where it is the next day – don’t want to be late. Mind you, there are several prominent orange Phuong Trang offices along Le Hong Phong Street and they all look alike. 202 is the one along Le Hong Phong that is between Tran Phu and An Duong Vuong.


I was fortunate that the reception girl spoke a little English. It’s best to get a Vietnamese to write down what you want to say in Vietnamese, or at least the destination. My poor VN pronunciation almost landed me at the wrong place. Fortunately, I had my VN friend write it down for me as back-up. You would have read that you have to stop somewhere along the way to Dalat. I booked the ticket to Dalat which usually cost 210,000vnd one way. But because I told her I was going to Nam Cat Tien, she charged me only 190,000vnd – so tell her where you’re going. If you book online, I think you’ll pay the full price – not that it’s a big difference. I realized that most Vietnamese will understand “Nam Cat Tien” and not “Cat Tien”. For foreigners, it’s known as “Cat Tien” to us. Told me to come one hour early. Why, I wonder, as most tours in Pham Ngu Lau only ask for us to go 30 minutes early. By the way, it would be good to put all those things you need on the bus in a bag (water, snacks, jacket, travel pillow, travel sickness med, book, phone … whatever you think you need) as your back-pack will be kept in the luggage hold.

The next day. I was lucky that I was obedient. Went there an hour early and sat to wait for the bus. Something made me asked the counter staff about the time of the bus. Thank God I did because I had to take their shuttle bus to BX Mien Tay (Bus Station Mien Tay) in Dist 6. That’s a good 20 minutes away. By then, I had missed one shuttle bus. It was already 8am when my shuttle bus left and I was wondering if I could make it on time. I did, fortunately. When you reach BX Mien Tay, look for a PT Room with the sign Dalat. Wait inside. An announcement will be made when it’s time to board. The people there are mostly taking the same bus as you, so you just follow them. Anyway, the PT staff will check your ticket first. Then he will lead everyone to the designated bus. More of the FUTA bus later.




I booked my accom with Green Bamboo Lodge (GBL – separate review). Upon my query in their facebook (which they were very prompt in replying), they asked me to get in touch with Mr Vung, their manager who will help me with the transport to GBL. He helped me to arrange a xe-om (motor bike taxi).

125km and 142km mark. You’ll find this all round the internet – some stopping at 125km, others at 142km. Mr Vung said I should tell the PT bus driver to stop at the 142km mark (important - write this down in VN and show to bus driver/asst). This is a petrol kiosk just before the Tan Phu Toll Station. 142km is nearer to Cat Tien and takes about 30 min by xe-om. 125km is at the small town Tan Phu and will take a longer distance/time to reach Cat Tien (and so you pay more for the xe-om). There was only my xe-om waiting for me at 142km so I guess that isn’t the place to stop unless you have arranged transport.

Stone Markers along QL20. There are stone markers along QL20 (Highway 20). These stone markers mark the distance along QL20 from the turnoff at QL1A (Highway 1A – the main highway you will take from HCMC – it actually goes all the way to Hanoi). 142km refers to the distance from HCMC. Do not be deceived like me. I was waiting for the 142km marker. Actually I should be looking at about the 50km mark – I didn’t note down the exact km mark because I was stunned when the asst to the driver said we had reached 142km mark. I guess it was the right place to drop as the toll station (main point of reference) was just in front. Anyway, my xe-om driver was already waiting there and flagged down the bus. Do remember to bring your glasses/sun-glasses when you ride the xe-om. Otherwise your eyes might get teary, also protection from small stones and dust. I brought my mask but didn’t use it as the air was fresh. And if you’re particular, then a cap too. Wear the helmet (comes with the xe-om) on your cap as you don’t know how many hundreds have worn that helmet!



Xe-om Price. My mistake was not asking Mr Vung to tell the xe-om driver the price. I ended up paying 200,000vnd (instead of 130,000vnd which I saw later on the GBL namecard). But seriously, I didn’t really mind. He has to make the trip out and wait for me. And then drive me all the way in. In HCMC, you’ll pay 50,000vnd just for a short distance. At times, I think we should not be too calculative where the livelihood of the locals is concerned.

Schedule :
0730 : Reach 202 LHP
0800 : Shuttle bus left for BX Mien Tay
0820 : Reach BX Mien Tay
0845 : Depart BX Mien Tay
1030 : Stop at PT Office in Bien Hoa to pick up passengers. Toilet break too.
1130 : Stop near turnoff to QL20 for lunch.
1205 : Depart
1330 : Reach 142km mark
1335 : Depart 142km mark on xe-om
1405 : Reach GBL

GOING BACK TO HCMC

Local or PT Bus? GBL Ms Men said that I could either take the local bus, or she could get a xe-om to drive me out to QL20 and help me hail the PT bus. When I asked, she said the local bus was quite alright. So I took her advice. If you think about it, you need to get someone to arrange with PT about the bus, ride the xe-om out 20+ km, and then wait for the PT bus to come. You don’t even know whether the xe om driver will wait with you. And you pay a lot more comparatively. But the local bus will pick you at the doorstep and send you all the way right into HCMC. Which will you choose? You, the reader, can decide after reading my adventure in the local bus.

Local Bus. The local bus comes to the Cat Tien entrance on the hour every hour, so I was told. It was quite on time – 8am. Just wait at Ms Le's stall or the Ticketing Booth. It costs 80,000vnd – you get what you pay for as you will see. I thought it was a big tour bus. Wrong, it’s a mini-bus. It announced its arrival in style - with horns blaring. Little did I realize that was an indication of what’s to come. Up the bus I went up with my pack and off the young driver went. Just waved at me to sit down, pack and all. The seats were small with little leg space. I’m 1.78m tall and thin and already found it tight. And there were more mosquitoes in the bus than in the Cat Tien jungle! I had to dig deep into my pack to retrieve my repellent. As written in the internet, the bus will go around the place to pick up more passengers. The way he drove, I think the driver was high. We had a jolly time speeding, twisting and turning all along the small country roads. Add the blaring VN music accompanied by the blasting horn and we’re all in for a hell of a ride … literally! At one stop, his assistant went over to the back to load some luggage bags. I took the opportunity to throw my backpack there. No, the boy said … and there were even chickens clucking their lives away in the “boot”. No choice so I went back. Driver signaled to put my pack under one of the front seats – thank goodness.

The bus zoomed around picking up more and more pax, even when all the seats were taken. The next few passengers were really taken for a ride. It goes like this. The asst will wave for an unsuspecting passenger to come on board. He steps up and the bus zooms off before he can change his mind. He looks round and finds no seat. The asst happily gives him a plastic chair to sit along the aisle. Now for the next victim. We were packed like sardines. In my row alone, we have 5 adults and 1 baby. It’s already cramped with 4 pax, let alone 5+1! I can’t even move my shoulders – we were all seated shoulder to shoulder, a royal feast for the mosquitoes. It’s going to be like that all the merry way to HCMC. What could be worse? Ah yes, there’s now this kid in front throwing up!



After an hour of looking for more victims, the mini bus finally makes it way out to QL20. We started at 8am, travelled along Ta Lai road and reach the turnoff to QL20 after an hour. (I think that’s the 125km mark but I’m not sure). After another hour, we reach the turnoff at QL1A and took a break at a local place. I climbed over an obstacle course of people and things just to get off the bus. Followed the toilet sign and almost ended up at the ladies toilet when I saw this VN guy at the “Gents”. Ladies have toilets with zinc doors. Gents … that wide open space with trees, it’s all yours … just pick your fav spot. I chose mine by the papaya tree!! Closer to HCMC, some pax got off and others got on. We finally reached the BX Mien Dong at 11.55am ... almost 4 hrs



Schedule :
0800 : Boarded the local mini-bus to HCMC
0900 : Reached Ta Lai/QL20 intersection
1005 : Reached QL20/QL1A intersection
1010 : Toilet break
1023 : Depart for HCMC
1155 : Reach Mien Dong Bus Station

GBL Ms Men said that if I should think of visiting again, I could buy the local bus ticket at Counter No 5 at BX Mien Dong. I went to check it out and true enough, Counter 5 sells bus tickets all the way to Cat Tien doorstep. So if anyone wants to travel VN-style and experience what it’s like to travel long-distance the VN way, just book a ticket from here.







ABOUT PHUONG TRANG BUS

The PT bus I took was a sleeper bus. Never took one before. I was concerned about “legs and feet” as Vietnamese have a habit of putting their feet everywhere. My fears were unfounded as our legs are tucked inside a plastic enclosure. The space was just a little too short for me after some time, but it didn’t really bother me (I’m 1.78m). I was asked to choose my seat when I booked my ticket at their office. Choose those window seats on the opposite side of the driver – so that you can look out at the streets. You’ll find cars zipping in the opposite direction if you sit at the window seats on the driver’s side, thus blocking your view at times. As for the middle row, need I say anything? It’s a no-no for me. Next question, up or down. I prefer the lower deck. There’s a blanket with every seat if you dare to use. Everyone is given a free bottle of water. The seats can be reclined so you can choose to lie down or half-sit. It’s best to bring a travel pillow with you – you won’t regret. The air-con wasn’t too good in this particular bus, so it gets a bit warm at times – all depends on your bus. You are given a plastic bag to put your shoes – no shoes/slippers in the bus. At the lunch stop, everyone just walked from their seats except silly me who brought my shoes. Guess what … the asst brought out a box of slippers for everyone!! How interesting! Oh yes, I forgot to mention the additional passengers in the form of some cockroaches hitch-hiking under the sleeper beds. The stops that the PT bus stop at have proper toilet facilities, unlike the local bus. And at the lunch point, you can buy a lunch set at 35,000vnd. Quite decent as you get rice, vegetable and a meat/fish/egg helping of your choice plus soup.





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